Last night a few friends and I hit the road and headed far north to Seahouses, or more specifically to the Farne Islands in search of the high seas and a special kind of bird… Known affectionately amongst the locals here as the 'Tommy Noddy' or clowns of the sea, we came to visit the glorious puffins who nest on these islands every year.
Now chances are you'll smell the islands before you see them, but this small cluster of craggy rocks is home to literally thousands of seabird colonies. The islands are so populated by Arctic terns, razorbills, guillemots and shags that often one bird has to leave their space before another can land! If you've never seen or heard of the spectacle before, I really urge you to go, unless you're scared of birds or water of course.
Given how delicate and profound these islands are, they are now protected Nature Reserves so visitors are forbidden from setting foot on the islands, (good job as there literally isn't any space) but you can book yourself on one of the numerous boat tours that operate from the harbour and see them up close for yourself. So after what turned out to be a good hour and a half's drive thanks to pesky traffic, the four of us finally reached the harbour to meet our skipper George and hop aboard the family boat. As it turns out, we had picked the perfect night to visit the Farne Islands. The sky was brilliantly clear, the sea as smooth as glass and the weather, happily still warm. I know I say this a lot, but there is no better feeling than being on a boat, the wind whipping through your hair and rushing past your ears, your body relaxing to the ebb and flow of the water, I just love it. Needless to say I was in my absolutely element and grinned from ear to ear as we made the 30 minute journey to our first cluster of islands.
Staple Island, one of the Outer Farne Islands was our first stop. Literally thousands of birds took to the skies, swooped under the water and sat elegantly on the waves. Naturally we took hundreds of photos, delighted at being able to see nature doing what it does best. It wasn't long before our arrival attracted the attention of some of the Farne Islands' other inhabitants… the grey seals!
Now I hasten to mention that the Farne Islands, which I'm sure you already know, is eternally famous as the site of Grace Darling's heroic rescue in 1838. Her story is of course familiar to generations of North East school children, but in case you're unaware, let me tell you. Grace and her family lived at Longstone Lighthouse and during one stormy night, a 22 year old Grace Darling awoke to find a shipwreck of a ship called the Forfarshire (the Titanic of its day) a short way off. Gathering her father and brother into the boat, she sailed a tiny rowing boat to rescue the survivors clinging to the rocks. As her father managed to secure nine survivors into the boat, Grace battled with the elements to keep the little coble boat afloat. The Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) awarded Grace and her father a silver medal for gallantry, making her the first ever woman to receive such an award. Consequently, Grace became a celebrity in her own right until her tragic death of TB only four years later.
Goldengate Tours, the boat company we had chosen are the only licensed boat company in Seahouses to land at Longstone Lighthouse and take people inside, so if you're planning a visit it's worth booking with Goldengate. We climbed the 100+ stairs to the top and were rewarded with the most beautiful view! George told us a little more about the lighthouse (but I won't spoil it for you if you're planning a visit) and we retreated downstairs for a cup of tea. I never wanted to leave, the view was so incredible. Reluctantly getting in the boat to go back to dry land, I managed to sweet talk our captain into him letting me drive the boat home! Well… in open sea, but still, I loved it.
The Farne Islands are without doubt one of my favourite places to visit in the North East. They're just unlike anything I've ever seen before and I get to indulge in my love of wildlife. Oh and of course get THE best fish and chips to eat on the way home!
Bon Voyage!
No comments:
Post a Comment